Free Web Hosting Provider - Web Hosting - E-commerce - High Speed Internet - Free Web Page
Search the Web


Amimono

Free Patterns: Slinky Tank

Home

These patterns are all of my own design, and I retain the rights to them. Feel free to print them out for your personal use, but please do not sell them, repost them without my permission, or claim them as your own work. --Lizzi Jennings, 2005

Slinky Tank


Show off those shoulders!. Fits 38"-40" chest.

Materials
~750 yds DK weight yarn
Original yarn: Wendy Peter Pan Baby Yarn. Not recommended for 100% cotton yarn because cotton doesn't hold ribbing well.
Size US 5 needles: one 24" or 29" circular and one set DPN's
stitch holder
stitch marker





Gauge
5 sts/7 rows per inch in stockinette. (Rib gauge is unreliable because it will vary according to the elasiticity of the yarn used.)

Finished Measurements
length: 20.5"

*Pattern*

Using circular needle, CO 200 sts using long-tail method. Do not join.

Pattern row: *K3, P2* across.

After working this row once, place marker, join, and begin working circularly. Repeat the pattern row, every row, until piece measures 13.5" from beginning.

(note: if you want to adjust the length, I recommend knitting to the desired length, putting all the stitches onto waste yarn, then trying the tube on, holding it up at the top. The armhole is meant to be rather high. This way you can check to see if the length is actually right for you.)

Divide for front and back: work in rib to 6 sts from marker, BO next 10 sts in rib. (You should be binding off 1 purl, 3 knit, 2 purl, 3 knit, then 1 purl stitch. If not, work more or fewer stitches before binding off to get into the proper position.)

Work in rib for 95 sts, BO 10 sts again in the same pattern. continue in rib on remaining 85 sts for back. (No, that's not a typo. The front and back are NOT equal.)

Back

(WS) sl 1, k all knit stitches and p all purl stitches to the last st, sl 1, turn.
(RS) k3, p2tog, work in rib to last 5 sts,p2tog, k3.

Work another WS row as above, then begin decrease pattern, working all WS rows as above:

Dec row 1: k3, p2tog, work in rib to last 5 sts, p2 tog, k3.
Dec row 2: k3, p1, ssk, work in rib to last 6 sts, k2 tog, p1, k3.
Dec row 3: repeat dec row 2.
Dec row 4: k3, p1, p2tog, work in rib to last 6 sts, p2tog, p1, k3.
Dec row 5: repeat dec row 4.

Continue decreasing two stitches every RS row following this sequence until there are 51 sts remaining. Work even for 10 rows. Save stitches on holder while working the front.

(note: if this method of decreasing seems too confusing, dec any way you want, as long as you do one stitch per edge, every RS row.)

Front

Work as for back until 51 stitches remain, ending with a WS row. Swtich to DPN's and work one row even, distributing the stitches between separate needles as necessary, then continue working across the back stitches from the holder. Join into a circle, and work for 6 rnds, decreasing one stitch each side directly over the shoulder joing (this helps keep the join from being loose). BO loosely.

(note: if you hate the thought of DPN's, join the front and back at one shoulder only, work the neckband flat, and seam the other side after binding off.)

Finishing

Weave in ends. Use the tail left from the cast-on to close the tiny gap left in the first row because it was not joined.